Is Papua New Guinea right for me? (2025)

Papua New Guinea is truly one of the last untouched destinations in the world. Home to 850 distinct languages, some of the world’s largest cave systems and five per cent of the planet’s biodiversity. Even now, scientists are still discovering new species of plants and animals in its ancient rainforests, making up the third largest in the world.

This makes Papua New Guinea one of the most untouched wildernesses, beckoning travellers from all over the world.

Before deciding whether Papua New Guinea should be on your bucket list, it’s important to know if this unique, rugged travel experience suits your travel style. To help guide your decision, here are some aspects of travelling in Papua New Guinea that past travellers have faced—are you ready for the adventure?

The Last Frontier

PNG is not your typical tourist destination. Tourism is still in its infancy, and schedules and plans can and do shift unexpectedly. Guides are locals who deeply understand their land, but formal accreditation is rare. You might find their style different and more casual from guides you’ve had in other countries. Government action, weather, and local conditions can disrupt itineraries. In such cases, it helps to be flexible and patient. Could you embrace a “go with the flow” mindset, knowing that flexibility is key and surprises — both good and challenging — are part of the journey?

Infrastructure

Roads in the Highlands and other remote regions are often bumpy, broken, dusty, and far from smooth. Vehicles are often functional but not luxurious. If spotless interiors and new cars with in-seat screens that plugin for charging at the end of each day are your standard, PNG may test your comfort zone. Expect mostly 4WD vehicles that sometimes have ‘troopy’ style seats. Most vehicles are diesel. River journeys such as along the Sepik are in motorised canoes which are basic and functional. Expect seating on wooden benches with little padding and no shade (we suggest bringing your own umbrella for this and a jumper or travel cushion for additional comfort on your seat!).

Could you embrace the ruggedness and view it as part of the adventure?

Meals in Papua New Guinea: Simple but Satisfying

Meals in Papua New Guinea are simple, often featuring basic yet nutritious dishes like root vegetables (taro, potatoes), chicken, or pork. Local cafés, especially in regional areas like Mount Hagen, typically offer variations of chicken and chips or fish and chips and are popular with both locals and travellers. Do not expect quinoa, kale, poke bowls or kombucha to wash down your lunch!

At festivals, meals are basic, and hygiene cannot always be guaranteed, so our team will often bring packed lunches (think sandwiches and a piece of fruit) from your hotel for freshness and peace of mind. We also recommend carrying protein bars or similar snacks, as purchasing food locally throughout the day can be challenging and limited.

For those with dietary restrictions, options may be available but can be limited. However, you can always count on the food to be fresh, authentic, and natural.

Could you embrace the simplicity of local meals and the freshness of natural ingredients, knowing that some flexibility in dining choices may be needed during your journey?

Flights. What flights?

Travelling by flight is essential in Papua New Guinea due to limited road infrastructure and infrequent ship schedules. Air travel can be chaotic, with frequent delays and cancellations on both Air Niugini and PNG Air. The recent national fuel shortage has only added to the disruption, causing ongoing flight cancellations and delays.

To navigate this, we recommend routing all flights through Port Moresby, as it offers more options for alternative flights and breaking journeys rather than trying to navigate domestic connections – trust us on this one! A pre-and post-night stay in Port Moresby is advised, allowing for flexibility if your connections are disrupted. Allow buffer days between flights to help accommodate potential delays. Travel light with only hand luggage to avoid the hassle of checked baggage, as it can complicate matters during cancellations.

Domestic airports are often crowded, uncomfortable, and lacking in amenities. Seating is limited to hard plastic chairs and there won’t be enough for everyone. When there are flight delays food and drinks can run out quickly, so carrying your own water and snacks is recommended. Expect long waits at customer service desks, where communication is scarce, and flight cancellations are often not reflected in the booking system. In the event of a cancellation, you have little control over which hotel you are assigned to, and the process can be slow and unclear – although you can always book your own – this is much quicker and faster, however means it is an additional cost to you but far less stressful.

Could you embrace the unpredictability of Papua New Guinea’s air travel system, knowing that flexibility, patience, and a sense of adventure are essential for the journey?

Not a budget destination

Despite its underdeveloped tourism infrastructure, Papua New Guinea is far from an inexpensive destination. Travelling here requires a flexible budget, as costs can quickly add up. Operating a tour in PNG is also costly. Factors like premium insurance, additional security, fluctuating fuel prices, guide shortages, and the need for reliable vehicles all contribute to the high expenses. Unlike other destinations, the cost here extends beyond just accommodation and meals. Even though the places you visit in PNG may be rustic, the prices are premium, however, the cultural experience you will have will far surpass any budget concerns.

The Red Stains of Betel Nut

One of the more surprising cultural practices in Papua New Guinea is the chewing of betel nut, or “buai.” This habit involves mixing betel nut with lime powder and mustard stick, creating a red paste that chewers spit out after use. The bright red stains left behind can be alarming if you’re not expecting it, often resembling blood splatters. Betel nut chewing is deeply ingrained in the daily life and social fabric of PNG, while your guides won’t chew it – almost everyone else will! Watch where you step!

Roughing it

In the Highlands and rural communities, established lodges can be akin to camping. In some places, you’ll find single beds or double rooms with flushing toilets and showers, powered by a generator and at the other end of the spectrum simplicity takes centre stage. In basic lodges, water may come straight from the rivers, and facilities will be basic with communal long-drop toilets (no toilet paper), a bucket and water for a shower, dirt floor with either plastic or mat covering and no electricity.

Would you trade modern conveniences for the rare adventure of truly immersing yourself in the remote beauty of the Papua New Guinean wilderness and village life?

Urban life after dark

When night falls in Papua New Guinea, the streets transform into quiet, dimly lit spaces. Most streets lack lighting, and it’s generally considered risky to be out after dark. Port Moresby can feel particularly overwhelming with its reputation for high security and the visible measures in place to protect residents and visitors alike. Tall fences, gated communities, and security checkpoints are a common part of life here. Adding to the experience is the noticeable wealth gap, with many foreigners, primarily Australians, residing in gated, affluent neighbourhoods and upscale malls. This stark contrast can be jarring but is part of the complex fabric of the city.

At Crooked Compass, we take safety seriously, especially in the Highlands and the Sepik region. Our hotels have dedicated security personnel for guests, and we position additional security at key points around the festival grounds. While we’ve never encountered any issues, we prioritise duty of care to ensure peace of mind for all.

Dispelling the Cannibalism Stereotype in Papua New Guinea

While Papua New Guinea is a nation rich in tribal traditions, the practice of cannibalism has long been abandoned. Perpetuating this outdated stereotype not only misrepresents the country’s cultural evolution but also offends its people. Can you set aside preconceived notions and explore Papua New Guinea with an open mind, appreciating its rich cultural heritage without the lens of outdated stereotypes?

The Kindness of Strangers

The kindness of people in Papua New Guinea is truly remarkable. Locals often take it upon themselves to protect and assist outsiders, especially the rare tourist. Whether it’s offering to guide you around or helping in times of need, their generosity knows no bounds. When someone loses something valuable, like a wallet, strangers will go out of their way to help—searching buses, offering fare, and even suggesting ways to broadcast a message.

Black Magic Beliefs in the Highlands

Black magic, or sanguma, is an integral part of life in the Papua New Guinea highlands, influencing how people interpret misfortune. When someone falls ill unexpectedly, has an accident, or even dies without an apparent cause, it’s often attributed to witchcraft. This belief can create an undercurrent of suspicion, particularly towards strangers or those perceived as outsiders. Would you embrace the challenge of understanding these cultural dynamics without judgment?

Understanding Animal Welfare and Cultural Perspectives

Travelling through Papua New Guinea offers many eye-opening experiences, especially when it comes to food and survival. For many communities, protein sources are limited, and the way animals are treated is based on necessity rather than sentiment. What might seem shocking to outsiders—such as seeing a live cuscus for sale as food—is simply a way of life here. Back home, discussions about animal welfare often spark strong emotions, but in places where survival is the priority, these perspectives shift. It’s a reminder that our way of thinking isn’t the only way—or always the right way. Respecting culture means understanding why people do things differently and recognising that, in many cases, they have no other choice. How do you balance cultural respect with your personal values when travelling? Would you step in, or would you observe and reflect?

Going off-grid
If you rely on your device, the lack of charging points and power outages might test your patience. Are you okay with unplugging and embracing a digital detox? Wi-Fi? Don’t even think about this. Some camps say they have Wi-Fi, but the chances of it being a solid connection are worth embracing just being disconnected. No need for connectivity anxiety out here!

Eyes off the clock

In Papua New Guinea, the pace of life is deeply connected to the land, community, and cultural traditions. For centuries, time was marked by the sun’s movement and the rhythms of daily village life rather than clocks. Events tend to unfold when everyone is ready, rather than at a predetermined hour. If you’re someone who values punctuality and structure, Papua New Guinea might challenge your expectations. Remember that time here is about quality, not quantity. People prioritise relationships and the experience itself over the clock.

A Final Thought

In remote places of the world, things rarely follow a structured plan. While our team at Crooked Compass do our best to prepare you for your journey it’s good advice to always expect the unexpected and embrace this as part of the wild experience. While this can be annoying for some, it also means you might experience unexpected surprises along the way. So much of travel comes down to an open mind and an attitude that embraces adventure.

Also, not all of the points above will apply to you. Touring Port Moresby is an entirely different experience from canoeing down the Sepik and staying with remote tribes. Every province in Papua New Guinea delivers a different style of travel – from a gentle entry level of Papua New Guinea through to hardcore initiation ceremonies and skin-scarring acts for those wanting to dive deep into tribal traditions. Our team will let you know what to expect at each part of the journey and direct you to find the right part of Papua New Guinea for your style and expectations. If you are ever unsure just ask – we’re happy to help!

Every journey challenges what we think we know. Whether it’s navigating the unfamiliar streets after dark, stepping into a world where black magic shapes everyday decisions, or adjusting to rural stays with bucket showers and long-drop toilets, travel in PNG isn’t just about seeing—it’s about understanding. Some moments may shock you, like the first sight of betel nut-stained pavement or the realisation that a cuscus for sale is destined for dinner, but these encounters offer a rare insight into a way of life that isn’t ours to judge, only to respect.

So, the question is—are you ready for the adventure?

Travel in Papua New Guinea is an invitation to step out of your comfort zone and embrace a different way of life. It’s a test of patience, but also a lesson in slowing down and seeing the world. You’re not just adapting to their culture—you’re becoming part of it. Be open, be curious, and get ready to visit one of the most unique wildernesses on Earth.

For all our tours in Papua New Guinea go here.

• Mount Hagen to Madang (private tour) – cross from the highlands to the coast of Papua New Guinea
• – The land where history can not only be told but can also be seen and touched
• Kenu and Kundu Festival – A spectacular event of ‘war canoes’ with warriors adorned in traditional dress, paddling to the beat of island drums
• Rabaul Mask Festival – A fascinating festival stooped in tradition combined with powerful ritual dances in elaborate spirit masks
• Goroka Festival – One of the largest tribal gatherings in the world showcasing traditional costumes, song, dance and tribal costumes
• Ambunti Crocodile Festival – Explore the planet’s foremost cultural and colourful buffet in a festival frenzy.
• Mount Hagen Cultural Show – A festival bringing together sing-sing groups from all over the country in an amazing conglomeration of colour, beauty and culture.